How do Nitrates and Phosphates get into the pool water?
Phosphates come into the pool water from lawn & tree fertilizers (blown or rained in from you or your neighbors yard or on swimmers feet), well water, residual detergent/soap (bather’s swimsuits, shampoo, hair & skin products residue), or added directly to the pool in the form of metal removal and stain treating chemicals. In some areas, like NYC, SHMP (polyphosphates) is added to the public water supply to reduce pipe corrosion.
Nitrogen comes into the pool from bather perspiration, urine, human waste, cosmetics, or other types of ammonia (bird, pet and duck droppings).

Why can Nitrates and Phosphates be a problem in pool water? Elevated levels of nitrates and phosphates can become a problem in your pool water. Phosphates and Nitrates are known plant nutrients and known pollutants. Algae loves both nitrates and phosphates. The two of them work together, and both must be present for the algae to feed. At the same time, when the nitrogen combines with the oxygen from the chlorine it causes a chlorine demand and you will have a hard time maintaining a Free Chlorine level. With this excessive chlorine consumption, the algae will bloom and your water quality will be poor (cloudy, green).

Do I need to worry about Nitrates and Phosphates in my pool? Most pool owners do NOT need to worry about Nitrates and Phosphates in their pool water if they maintain good water chemical balance (Free Chlorine residual of 1.0 to 4.00ppm, pH 7.4-7.6, Total Alkalinity of 120 to 150ppm, Cyanuric Acid of 35 to 125ppm and Calcium Hardness of 200-300ppm) and have swimmers shower before using the pool.

How do I know if I am having a problem with Nitrates and Phosphates?
You are probably having a problem with Nitrates and Phosphates if you have the following symptoms:
• Cloudy Green Water
• Green or Mustard Algae growing on floor and walls
• Excessive Chlorine Consumption – you are adding a lot of chlorine but not able to get a free chlorine residual.
• Poor water quality
If you have these symptoms bring a water sample to your local pool professional for a phosphate test. If a Phosphate test by your local pool professional shows phosphate levels over 125ppb or .125ppm you will need to treat the water.

How do I solve the Problem? Algae requires both phosphates and nitrogen to feed. Remove the food and you starve the algae. Since nitrates can only be removed from the water by draining and refilling with fresh water, chemical manufacturers focus on removing phosphates to resolve the issue. Use Natural Chemistry’s Phos-Free, a natural, non-toxic mineral compound, to effectively reduce the phosphates in your pool without clouding the water. To maintain near zero phosphate levels treat weekly with Natural Chemisty’s Pool Perfect + PHOSfree. Follow the directions of your local pool professional to obtain and maintain good water chemical balance and the proper use of the phosphate removal products.

Water Tech Automatic Pool Cleaner Manuals
Zodiac Manuals

2. Test and Balance the Water. Adjust your pH to 7.2 to 7.6ppm, Alkalinity to 100 to 120ppm, Calcium Hardness to 180 to 220ppm.

3. Gather your tools and supplies. Make sure you have all of the tools and supplies you will need: basic hand tools, an air compressor or shop vac, winterizing plugs and gizmos, winterizing chemicals, pool cover and air pillows.

4. Remove & store accessories. Store your vacuuming equipment, pole, skimmer net, brush, inflatables and pool toys in a dry place for the winter. Remove your ladder and store in a dry place out of the elements. Store any unused chemicals, with their tops tightly closed, in a cool, dry place as well.

5. Add Winter Chemicals. Add a Winter Chemical Kit to your pool. Winter Kits are sold in sizes based on the gallons of water in your pool. Purchase and add the kit for your size pool. If your pool is in between kit sizes purchase the next larger size. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the kit. Run your filter for 1 hour after adding the winter chemicals. Adding winter chemicals will help maintain your water quality over the winter months. We do not recommend using a floater that contains a strong oxidizer (i.e, chlorine tabs or bromine tabs) as that may get stuck against a wall and bleach the liner.

6. Lower the water level below the mouth of the skimmer. Sand and DE filters with multiport valves should backwash the filter first very well to clean the filter out. Lowering the water will get the water out of the skimmer throat which could be damaged by freezing water over the winter. Remove skimmer basket(s) and pump basket. Install gizmo into skimmer and an aquador winter faceplate can snap onto the skimmer plate over the mouth of the skimmer to protect water from entering the lines.

7. Disconnect and drain water from hoses.
a. Put a plug in your return fitting. This is the fitting in the wall of the pool where the water returns to the pool.
b. Disconnect the hoses from the return and skimmer(s) and/or at the filter system and drain them. You may use a shop vac or compressor to help with this.
c. Remove pressure gauge from filter and store in pump basket.
d. Drain the pump by removing the drain plug(s). Use your shop vac/compressor to blow water out of pump and pump impeller. Lubricate o-ring on the pump. Bring pump inside for the winter.

8. Drain and clean filter.
a. Cartridge Filter. Remove your filter cartridge and hose off any debris. If cartridge is in poor condition discard and start with a fresh clean cartridge in the Spring. Wipe the interior of the filter clean and dry. Store in a dry location over the winter.
b. Sand Filter: Unplug the filter drain plug and leave plug off for the winter. Put drain plug with other small removed items in the pump basket. Make sure multiport valve has no water in it. If necessary, blow it out with your shop vac or compressor. Leave multiport valve in the “closed” or “winterize” position.
c. DE filter: Drain DE filter tank and remove fingers or grids for cleaning. Clean out tank and wipe dry. Hose off fingers or grids. If fingers or grids are discolored a mild solution of vinegar and water may be used but it is not recommended to use muriatic acid at the time of the closing since the acid may disintegrate the fabric over the winter. A muriatic acid solution should be used during the Spring or during the swimming season when pool water will immediately run through the system. Make sure multiport valve has no water in it. If necessary, blow it out with your shop vac or compressor. Leave multiport valve in the “closed” or “winterize” position.

9. Empty chlorinator. If you have a chlorinator remove any unused tablets. Disconnect chlorinator, remove drain plug, rinse out, and wipe dry. Put drain plug in pump basket. Lubricate o-ring on lid.

10. Install winter cover.
a. Fill your air pillow with compressor to 80% full.
b. Attach rope to the grommets on the pillow and center pillow in pool.
c. Place your winter cover over pool and pillow. The cover should drape over the sides of the pool. Install cable into the grommets on the edges of the cover and secure cable tightly with the winch device that came with your cover.

How salty is the water? Most chlorine generators require salt content of 3000 – 4000ppm (parts per million). Ocean water has a salt content of around 35,000ppm. The average person cannot taste the salt in a salt water pool since the salinity is so mild. In a salt water pool the salinity is close to that of the human skin so the water feel smooth, and your skin feels smooth upon getting out of the pool.

How does a Salt Water Pool System work? The chlorine generator system consists of a control unit and a salt cell. The control unit regulates how long the power is supplied to the salt cell. Chlorine is produced when power is supplied to the cell. Typically, there is a control knob on the unit to regulate the amount of power going to the cell. By turning the control knob up the unit supplies electric to the salt cell for a longer amount of time. Salty water flows through the cell (with the pump on) and through the process of electrolysis, the salt in the water is converted into liquid chlorine.

How often do I have to add salt? Salt in the pool is only lost when water leaves the pool through backwashing, splash-out, leaks, or vacuuming to waste. Most pool owners with salt water need to replace about 10% of their salt during each season.

What system maintenance is required? You will need to monitor and keep the salt concentration between 3000 to 4000ppm to have an adequate amount of salt for the cell to produce the chlorine necessary to maintain the pool. Salt test strips and kits can be purchased at your local pool supply store. Most controls will display the salt content on the LED panel on the control. Your control knob may also have to be adjusted, up or down, as required to keep the chlorine production in line with the demand. Since the chlorine generator will only make chlorine when the pump is running you need to have the pump on when demand is highest. Typically setting your timer to run during the daylight hours from about 8am to 6pm daily in the summer is about right. Through a bit of trial and error you will find the control setting and filtration time you need to meet the chlorine demand during different points in your swimming season. Occasionally, if the chlorine reading is below recommended levels you may need to super chlorinate the pool manually to supplement the chlorine feed in order to raise the chlorine level quickly.

What maintenance of the cell is required? Most units have a self cleaning feature built right in that reverses the polarity of the voltage through the cell to clean off scale buildup off of the cell plates. If the unit does not have a self cleaning feature, at the end of the season, a mild muriatic solution may be used to clean the cell of 10 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid.

What are the benefits to a salt water system?
• Continuous sanitation eliminates free chlorine volatility and chloramines build up
• Clearer eyes
• Softer skin with less dry whitish chlorine residual
• No noxious chlorine smells
• No hassles of handling, storing or transporting chlorine

Where does the salt go? The salt is poured directly into the deep end of your pool. Using your telepole and brush head, brush any that is laying on the floor of the pool until it is fully dissolved.

Do I still need other chemicals? Yes! The salt system generates chlorine only. Chlorine is most effective and your pool healthiest for swimmers and equipment with properly balanced water. Alkalinity, pH, Calcium, Cyanuric Acid levels will still need to be maintained at proper levels. (See for Guide to Water Care article).

What size chlorine generator should I purchase? Salt systems produce a certain amount of chlorine per hour. You will need to consult with your pool professional to purchase the system that will keep up with the chlorine demand for the volume (gallons) of water in your pool. Manufacturer specifications will indicate the number of gallons of pool water for each model system. If your pool volume is between 2 models buy the larger system.

Is there a cost benefit to using a chlorine generator? Most pool owners purchase salt systems for improved water quality, swimmer comfort and the other benefits discussed above. Nonetheless, you will save a good bit of money by no longer needing to purchase chlorine. After the upfront cost, it usually takes about 2 to 3 years for the system to pay for itself.

Why do swimmers who consider themselves “sensitive” to chlorine not experience sensitivity in salt water pools? Many times the people who have sensitivity or “allergic reactions” are not actually having a reaction to the chlorine. Packaged pool chemicals have additives and by-products that don’t exist in the chlorine generated by the salt cell.

Is there actually a leak or is it just evaporation?

Water loss in your swimming pool typically comes from:
1. Evaporation
2. Splashed out water
3. Plumbing lines/Equipment
4. Vinyl Pools: Liner holes/tears
5. Gunite pools: cracks in the surface

SYMPTOMS OF A LEAK:
Water loss of more than ½” in 24 hrs
Your automatic fill is continually running
Puddles of water/drips at your filter equipment Standing water, mushy spots or uneven grass growth around pool
Pool has air in the system
Equipment loses prime
Dirt coming out of the return lines

What to do:
First determine that the symptoms are not evaporation by doing a bucket test.

The Bucket Test:
1. Bring the pool water up to normal levels.
2. Turn off your auto fill device.
3. Do not backwash during the test.
4. Fill up a 5 gallon bucket with pool water to about an inch from the top.
5. Mark the water level inside the bucket.
6. Place the bucket on the second step of the pool or the lowest step without the bucket being submerged.
7. Turn the pump off.
8. Mark the pool water level on the outside of the bucket.
9. Turn the pump back on.
10. After 24 hrs. turn the pump off and mark the water level on the outside of the bucket and the water level on the inside of the bucket.
11. Resume pump operation.
12. Measure the distance between the marks on the inside and outside of the bucket. If the outside mark goes down more than the inside mark then you have a leak. If the distance is the same it is evaporation.

It’s not evaporation! Now what?
1. Visually inspect all exposed plumbing going to and from the pool and at the pool equipment area for drips/leaks.
2. Check the end of the backwash/waste hose. Is water trickling out when not backwashing?
3. With the pump off – re-inspect all plumbing and equipment for drips/leaks.
4. Visually inspect the shell of the pool (for gunite) – are there any cracks or loose tiles?
5. For vinyl: visually inspect the vinyl liner for holes/tears.
6. With the pool pump off go underwater with a mask on. Using a dye kit check for leakage around the pool light, return line fittings, main drain, liner seams and step areas. Expel enough dye to make a small cloud in the area you are testing. The dye will be drawn into the leak.
7. If the leak is in the underground plumbing lines you will need to call Pinto’s for professional assistance.

When do I call in a professional?
Usually most inground pool owners need to call Pinto’s after they have made visual inspections and ruled out evaporation. Pinto’s has experienced technicians that use state of the art electronic liner track equipment to find even the smallest holes in your liner. With our pressure testing equipment they will be able to identify any underground plumbing line leak(s) as well. Please call our Service Department at 631-878-0966, to schedule your professional leak detection.

How do I prepare my pool for a professional leak detection?
1. Do the bucket test do be sure it is a leak and not evaporation.
2. Your pool will need to be clear and vacuumed before your leak detection appointment.
3. Fill your pool to the normal level.
4. Shut your filter off. Mark the water level. 24 hours later compare the water level and note how much water was lost with the filter off. Turn your filter back on. You will need this information when scheduling your appointment.
5. Call 878-0966 and schedule your leak detection.

What can I expect?
1. Visual Inspection. Your Pinto Service Technician will do a complete visual inspection upon arrival at your inground pool. He will look for leaks in exposed plumbing and at the filter, pump(s), heater, chlorinator and other equipment. He will check pump suction/discharge seal assemblies, multiport valve, and waste line. Technician will visually inspect liner for holes or gunite pools for cracks and loose tiles. Any holes in liner will be patched. He will inspect around the light gasket and conduit. If leakage is found at the light a 2-part epoxy sealer will be used to seal the leak. He will check return line fittings, hydro jets and skimmer gaskets.
2. Pressure Test. If no leaks are visually observed then lines will be pressure tested using professional pressure testing equipment. Location of underground plumbing leaks can be easily identified this way.
3. Liner Track Test. If there are no leaks visually observed and all lines hold pressure then your liner will be tested using electronic Leak Trac equipment to find even the smallest holes in your liner.
4. Repairs. Your Pinto professional will advise you of his findings from your diagnostic appointment. Repair work is additional from your leak detection and diagnostic work. These repairs are based on time and materials and you will be promptly provided with an estimate for the repair.

Circulation and Filtration
Your pool’s circulation system contains a filter and pump. This system provides uniform distribution of sanitizing/balancing chemicals and removal of algae, dirt, dust and leaves to keep your pool water clean and healthy. You should run your filter at least 8 hours per day. In periods of high heat, and sun in the middle of the summer you may need to run it longer to maintain your clean, sparkling water. It is necessary for you to maintain the water level in the pool at least ½ way up the skimmer box and not over the skimmer box for your filter to work properly. If the water level drops below the skimmer box you will burn out your pump motor. If the water level is above the skimmer box the skimmers will not be able to clean the surface debris from the pool water.

Testing the Water
The pool water should be tested daily during the swimming season for two reasons: 1. To protect bathers from bacteria, and 2. To protect the pool surfaces and equipment from the damage caused by unbalanced water. Test strips or kits can be purchased at Pinto’s or your local pool store. Follow the instructions carefully on your test kit to get accurate readings. Chemicals should be added to maintain the water within ideal and healthy ranges for both swimmers and your equipment. Follow the instructions on each chemical package that will guide you to add the correct quantity to reach the ideal range for your pool water gallonage.

Balancing the Water
Everything the water touches is affected by the water chemistry. Unbalanced water will corrode metal components of your pool equipment, stain and make brittle your pool liner, and deposit crusty coarse substances called scale on pool surfaces and equipment. Unbalanced pool water will lead to costly repairs and the premature demise of your pool equipment. The goal is to maintain balanced water to avoid unnecessary repairs and promote longevity of your pool, liner and equipment. The three water balance parameters to be primarily concerned with are pH, Total Alkalinity, and Total Hardness.

pH
pH is measured on a scale of 0 – 14 with a pH of 7 being neutral. Below 7 the water is acidic and above 7 the water is basic (alkaline). The pH range recommended for pool water is slightly alkaline, which is the most comfortable for swimmers, since the pH of the human eye is about 7.5. Low pH creates corrosive water which pits and dissolves metals, stains/wrinkles liners, and causes skin/eye irritation. High pH creates scaling water which plugs filters, reduces circulation, clouds pool water, and causes skin/eye irritation. Any pH level outside of the ideal range results in chlorine inefficiency.

Calcium Hardness
Calcium Harness is the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. If the water is deficient/low in dissolved calcium it is corrosive. If the water contains too much calcium it will create scaling water. Corrosive or scaling water will damage pool and equipment as described above.

Total Alkalinity
Total Alkalinity is the amount of sodium hydrogen carbonate dissolved in the pool water. Total Alkalinity buffers or stabilizes the pH from wide pH swings. When Total Alkalinity is within the ideal range pH bounce does not occur. Low Total Alkalinity causes corrosive water and high Total Alkalinity causes scaling water. Always adjust pH first then adjust Total Alkalinity.

Sanitation
Sanitation is the reduction of the level of bacteria in the pool water. Sanitizers are chemicals or devices that kill the bacteria and micro-organisms present in the pool water. There are many different sanitizers and sanitizing devices available. The most common pool sanitizer is chlorine.

Chlorine
Chlorine is an active sanitizer and an oxidizer. Chlorine tablets (stabilized chlorine) should be added to your automatic chlorinator. Your filter circulates pool water through the chlorinator and into the pool. Tablets should be added carefully through your chlorinator ONLY. If thrown into the pool they will bleach out your liner! If they lie on the ground they will kill your grass!

As a sanitizer, chlorine destroys micro-organisms. As an oxidizer it “burns up” organic contaminants such as hairspray, perspiration, body oils, etc. When the chlorine reacts with ammonia compounds in the water, which come from perspiration and urine, it becomes “combined chlorine”. It is in this form that causes the Chlorine odor and burning eye irritation. When the combined chlorine reading on your test strip exceeds the ideal range it is necessary to oxidize or destroy the combined chlorine. This is done by superchlorinating or “shocking” the pool. You should shock your pool every week to 10 days in accordance to the label directions for the gallonage of your pool. It is best to shock the pool in the early evening so that it can work overnight and be burned down overnight to normal levels the next day. Be sure to continue to run your filter during this period of time.

CAUTION: NEVER MIX CHLORINE PRODUCTS OR ANY CHEMICALS TOGETHER OF ANY KIND. POOL CHEMICALS SHOULD BE ADDED SEPARATELY AND STORED SEPARATELY IN A COOL, DRY, WELL-VENTED LOCATION.

If you have any questions be sure to call Pinto’s or your local pool professional.

Chlorine consumption depends on several factors: Temperature, bathing load, rainfall and pH. Pool water of 80-85 degrees will require twice the chlorine of pool water at 60-65 degrees. Heavily used pools increase the amount of contaminants and bacteria in the water and will also use much more chlorine and will need to be shocked more frequently. Rain washes airborne contaminants back in the water as well. Daily testing of your pool water is necessary.

Cyanuric Acid
Cyanuric Acid, also called conditioner/stabilizer, is used solely to protect chlorine dissipation from sunlight. You should have the level of cyanuric acid tested monthly by Pinto’s or your local pool professional especially if you find that free chlorine is rapidly lost.

Pinto’s Water Testing Lab
Pinto’s Retail Store, at 66 Montauk Highway in East Moriches has a complete Lab for testing your pool water open 7 days a week. Testing and advice is provided free of charge. It is suggested that pool water should be brought in monthly for analysis.

Common Pool Water Problems
The most common water problems are Algae, Cloudy Water and Staining.

Algae
The best way to prevent algae growth is to maintain your chlorine between 1 – 3 ppm. When the sanitizer levels are allowed to drop algae spores will germinate. Within 12 hours a pool can be completely overrun with algae. Algae can make the floor and walls of your pool slippery and the water green and cloudy. To treat algae brush floor, walls and stairs thoroughly. Shock treat pool. Allow filter to run until pool water is clear. Backwash filter as needed. Retest pH and adjust if necessary. Vacuum then brush floor and walls. If algae persists consult Pinto’s or your local pool professional to determine further treatment and the possible addition of an algaecide.

Cloudy Water
The usual causes of cloudy water are improper filtration and/or improperly balanced pool water. An algae condition or high chloramines condition can also cloud pool water. First test the pool water and make any necessary adjustments to be within ideal ranges. Then check the filter system. The filter may need to run longer and/or it may need to be backwashed. Be sure to backwash your DE filter in accordance to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have any questions please contact Pinto’s.

Stains
Stains are the results of metal ions in your pool water. The metal is in your pool from either your source of water or from a corrosive water condition that is dissolving metal pool components. It is advised that you bring in a water sample to Pinto’s lab or your local pool professional to test in their lab. If the stain is caused by metals a pool professional may recommend an appropriate sequestering agent so that your filter can remove the minerals from your pool water.

Debris removal and water line cleaning
Empty out skimmer baskets daily.
Clean scum line from inside skimmer, walls of skimmer and weir, and water line around pool. A product like Soft Scrub and a wet sponge works well for this. Do this at least once a week.
Skim surfaces of pool with hand skimmer net before swimming. Brush walls, stairs, skimmer mouths, behind ladders as needed but at least weekly.

Backwash filter
Turn off filter and clean out hair and lint basket in pump. Replace basket after cleaning.
If you have a valve on your waste line, open valve before backwashing. Turn off pump before moving controls on multiport handle to backwash position. Pump must be off in order to change the position of this handle.
Backwash filter until waste water runs clear. Then Rinse, backwash and rinse. Be sure to move multiport handle back into the “filter” position when done.
FOR DE FILTERS: Recharge your earth filter with DE immediately. Never run your filter after backwashing without doing this or you will clog your filter elements. If you do make this mistake you will need a service call. With filter on pour DE slowly in the skimmer basket closest to the filter. Hayward DE3620 filters use 4 ½ lbs of DE. Hayward DE4820 filters use 6 lbs of DE. Be sure to use a DE scoop for accurate measuring.
Turn off filter and clean out pump hair and lint basket again. Then turn on the filter and you are done.

Vacuuming
Vacuuming your pool should be done at least weekly if you do not have an automatic pool cleaner in your pool. If you have an automatic pool cleaner you can simply brush any debris stuck around edges of pool, behind stairs, or corners towards the center and your cleaner will pick it up. With an automatic pool cleaner you will probably only vacuum in the beginning of the season and after any stormy weather when debris levels would be too heavy for your automatic cleaner.

To vacuum your pool remove the skimmer lid of the skimmer closest to the filter system and insert your skim vac attachment into the skimmer opening. The skimmer basket should remain inside the skimmer to collect the vacuumed debris. The valve for the other skimmer(s) and main drain should be closed to obtain maximum suction from the line you are vacuuming from. With heavy debris you may need to stop vacuuming, turn off filter, backwash and empty skimmer basket a few times. Follow the above directions for backwashing when done with vacuuming.

Winter Care
Shock the pool and add your winter chemicals while your pool is still circulating. Lower the water level to just below the skimmers. Using an air compressor blow out all lines and add swimming pool non-toxic anti-freeze, plug all lines and drain water from the equipment to protect against freeze damage. Gizzmo expansion devices should be installed in skimmers. Cover your pool with either a mesh or solid cover. Solid covers will need to have accumulated water pumped off the cover using a submersible cover pump during the winter. Pump motors and heater trays should be removed by a professional and stored for the winter. It is strongly recommended that you have Pinto’s or your local pool professional Winterize your pool.

READ ALL OF THE INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE MANUFACTURERS OF YOUR EQUIPMENT FOR PROPER USE AND MAINTENANCE. IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF WHAT TO DO OR HAVE ANY QUESTIONS CONTACT PINTO’S OR YOUR LOCAL POOL PROFESSIONAL.

Help is available from Pinto’s
PINTO’s offers a full range of services to assist you with your pool. Summerizings, weekly maintenance programs, Winterizings, and repairs are just a few of the services available to help you enjoy your pool with less work! Contact the Pinto Service department at 631-878-0966 for assistance or information.